Poi Sang Long: The Beautiful Ordination of the 'Jewel Sons'
Poi Sang Long (ประเพณีปอยส่างลอง) is one of Thailand’s most visually spectacular and culturally unique religious festivals. Predominantly celebrated by the Tai Yai (Shan) ethnic group in the northern provinces, especially Mae Hong Son, this tradition is an elaborate, multi-day ceremony focused on the ordination of young boys as Buddhist novices (Nen).
A Reenactment of Royal Renunciation
The significance of Poi Sang Long lies in its vivid reenactment of the historical moment when Prince Siddhartha (the future Buddha) renounced his lavish royal life to seek enlightenment. The young candidates, typically boys between the ages of seven and fourteen, are treated like royalty before they assume the simple life of a monk.
- The 'Sang Long': The boys undergoing the ordination are referred to as the 'Sang Long,' meaning "beloved sons" or "jewel sons." They symbolize Prince Siddhartha before he left the palace.
The Transformation and Adornment
The most striking feature of the festival is the meticulous and costly preparation of the Sang Long.
- Preparation: The boys’ heads and eyebrows are shaved, symbolizing their commitment to the spiritual path.
- Royal Dress: They are then dressed in brilliant, elaborate attire, including shimmering silk robes, ornate jackets, and heavy, genuine gold jewelry—necklaces, rings, and bracelets.
- The Crown: Crucially, they wear a magnificent floral or jeweled headdress (Chada), signifying their temporary status as royal princes. Their faces are heavily made up, often painted with bright colors and accented with jewels, transforming them into almost ethereal figures.
The Parade and the Ceremony
The ceremony spans three days, blending joyous spectacle with deep spiritual reverence:
- Day One (Wan Haeng Sang Long): The Sang Long are triumphantly paraded through the town. They are never allowed to walk; instead, they are carried on the shoulders of male attendants, known as Tae Pae (ต๊ะแป๊), who act as their spiritual guardians throughout the festival. Friends and family follow the procession, dancing and offering gifts.
- Day Two (Wan Kid Sang Long): The Sang Long perform rituals and pay respects to their elders and sponsors, receiving final blessings from the community.
- Day Three (Wan Buat): The colorful attire is finally exchanged for the humble saffron robes of a novice. The boys formally enter the Sangha (monastic community) in the Ubosot (ordination hall), completing their journey from a symbolic prince to a dedicated spiritual seeker.
The Poi Sang Long is a glorious demonstration of cultural identity, unwavering faith, and communal generosity, highlighting the value placed on spiritual pursuit in the Tai Yai tradition.